If you have ever stepped off the metro at Xiaobei station and walked up into the open air, you already know the feeling. The smell of grilled suya mixing with fresh bread from a Yemeni bakery, Lingala and Wolof and Arabic all bouncing off each other in the same five metres of pavement, a Nigerian aunty haggling over the price of stockfish while a Guinean trader counts out yuan for a bag of...
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